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Does your car fall off at the end of a race??

You still have tires and grip but the power is just not what it was?  What happened?

Well the car did not fall off....The car is mechanical and the parts do not change....so what does?  Why would you loose power?

Could it be your oil?....Is it because the temperature is getting high?....Is my motor going bad? ...Or is it just the driver??

Well relax...its most likely not the driver because this happens a lot to many drivers that do not know the secret.

We are going to give you several reasons you can look at and think about that could cause your car to loose power.

Lets first look at the oil...When oil comes from the factory there is a variance built in. Say you purchased a 30 weight....Legally and by the manufacturing rules...that oil could actually be a 26 weight or a 34 weight the day you buy it. 

Also when oils are produced they are set up and tested on on two different temperature ranges. 40C and 100C...or in American terms...100F and 212 Fahrenheit ....Many of our cars oil temperatures reach upwards of 300 degrees....What do you think your oil viscosity(thickness) is when it gets this hot? Do you think the additive packages that give it lubricity and thickness are performing properly? What do you truly have working inside your engine? Do you have protection and power producing lubrication? If you started with a 26 weight then you could be running something close to a 10 weight....Almost as thin as water when your engine is  that hot. Is this what you want protecting your investment? Is this what you want to race on?

All conventional oils contain naturally occurring substances such as sulfur, sulfur compounds, reactive hydrocarbons and other materials, that can not be completely removed from the crude petroleum and thus end up in the final product.

What happens? " High oil temperature in excess of 240°F (115°C) will break down petroleum oils and cause oxidation, which in turn forms deposits, varnish and increases wear. Low oil temperatures will cause formation of sludge, which can block oil passages."

Now lets look at the engine.... Because crate engines are so popular let's talk about them. Many crate engines run hydraulic lifters. We decided to test different oils in a crate engine on the dyno. When we did, we found that there is a line you need to stay close to in thickness to ensure the lifters have a full pump and allow the valves to function properly opening and closing full and timely. Depending on whether you're running a synthetic or mineral based oil the situation changes with temperature. Oils that loose their viscosity and are thinner do not perform as well as ones that maintain their integrity.

On engines with solid lifters, open classes and high horsepower engines.... you must be concerned with maintaining lubrication capabilities and not wearing or scoring the cam and lifters, crank and cylinders. When temperature are high...or low...when your running hard and high RPM's....you must be concerned about the oil maintaining its structural capabilities. You must be sure that the oil you put in is staying effective all the time...not just part of the time.  If not....you loose power and many times wear out your motor.

What about you drag racers?  Many times in drag racing when staging the car will never get to full operating temperatures. Its not unusual to begin a race at 160 degrees and finish at 185 degrees. When you have multi viscosity oils designed around 100 and 212 degrees Fahrenheit you have to ask the question...if I start with a 20W50 oil that starts at a 20 weight and reaches its optimum 50 weight at operating temperature of 212...then what viscosity is it at 165 degrees? If your a bracket racer where repeatability and consistency is optimum you would need to question this because you all know that variables are not your friend. Also, many drag racers tell me they loose oil pressure sometimes when they launch and many times when they hit the brakes at the end of the track. This is because the oil rushes away from the pick up points momentarily. What is happening to your motor at that point? Simply put....your motor is lubricated when oil is pumped through all the areas between moving parts. When the pressure pumping stops...even for seconds...then the flow does too. At that point you can have metal to metal. Over a period of time this can cause major issues.

The above statements are facts that are documented by proven experts as well as racers all over. Choosing the right lubrication process for your engine is premium to its performance and life. There are many great motor oils on the market but none impregnate and truly become part of the metal.

Their is one and only proven solution that will help with any oil you choose, the XL-1 Engine Treatment. It physically treats your engine...the actual metal that comes into contact with each other. The metal parts that rub together...

 Our XL-1  physically impregnates the metal parts and stops wear...reduces friction, and allows for less drag. Just by pouring XL-1 in you motor,  you increase horsepower and torque...reduce wear and drag....and give your engine the opportunity to last longer, run faster and be more dependable for you at the end of the race.

Now....do you want to go racing without it. 

Racers say...".If your not running the Daytona1 Products....Your getting Beat by Them!"

Edward "Buck" Parker
 Personally inducted into the
NASA Space Technology
Hall of Fame, Year 2000

 
How To Prep Your Race Tires Successfully
 
Our Gripe-Bite Blue and Green is a once and done tire prep, you won't be treating your tires every night till you race.  Cut, grind and then clean with our Aqua to properly prepare the tire surface then treat with Blue or Green.  Treat on Sunday or Monday and race on the weekend, it's that easy!
 
Tires are the point of contact between the racecar and the track. With a prep, there are two types: Qualifying Prep and Race Prep. The purpose of a Qualifying Prep is to allow the tire to “fire” quickly, creating maximum traction for a short time period. A Race Prep, on the other hand, is suited for use throughout an entire race. We now have a family of products that are designed for both of these purposes and we are proud to say that they are no-odor, non-toxic, and environmentally safe.

 

The first step in prepping your tires is to cut or grind, then clean them properly. Our Grip-Bite Aqua Race Tire Cleaner removes the mold release from new tires, opens the pores of the tire to better accept tire prep and cleans foreign material off used tires.

To use, spray the tire with the cleaner and let it sit for 3-5 minutes. Do not let dry. Pressure wash or scrub briskly with wet microfiber towel, then rinse and allow to dry.

For your Qualifying Tires, we make Grip-Bite Red. The application of this product will accelerate tire action and conditions the tire surface each time it is used. It works great on asphalt as well as dirt track tires. It builds bite and grip without softening the tire.  Using Grip-Bite Red right before a race will help the tires "fire off" faster, meaning that they get up to ideal operating temperature providing up to three fast laps for a better qualifying attempt.

To use, we recommend applying it at the track. Wearing rubber gloves, spray and soak the tire thoroughly. Let stand 2-3 minutes, but do not let it dry. Pressure wash or scrub the tire with a wet microfiber cloth. Rinse thoroughly with water. Either dry with a microfiber cloth or allow to air dry.

Grip Bite Red can also be used during the week as a base coat super prep before using our other treatments.

To treat your tires for an extended race, we offer two treatments. Grip Bite Blue and Grip Bite Green and both work great both on inside and outside of the tire. Grip Bite Green is less viscous and works easily inside of the tire using a rotisserie. If you use Grip Bite Blue inside you will probably have to roll it on the inside as it is thicker. Grip-Bite Blue and Green are not softeners and do not degrade the rubber like other products.

The treatment is based on Elastomers, so it restores, adds new life, and gives super bite and grip. It also allows your tires to last longer and work better.

Grip-Bite Green is equipped with an accelerator and will dry quickly, therefore it can be used the day of the race if necessary, but for maximum effectiveness, we recommend our Grip-Bite Blue. Treat during the week with one coat. Wrap with plastic and let sit. Remove plastic the day before the race to make sure the product is dry.

To use, apply an ample amount to the inside of the tire to cover the side walls as the tire rotates. Let rotate until the sidewall is fully covered and the product has penetrated the tire sidewall completely. One treatment normally gives the desired results and a more active and usable sidewall.

Grip-Bite Blue is mainly our outside treatment. To use, apply with a paint roller or similar applicator mid-week. Wrap the tire in plastic or place in a hot box (at 100 degrees). Let it sit for 24 hours or until dry. One treatment normally gives the desired results, but for harder tires, we recommend an additional coat.

You can find our tire treatments under Performance Lubricants.

 
 
 

 

by Crate Insider Published on 07-01-2014 09:31 AM

 

Buck Parker, inductee in the NASA Technology Hall of Fame, is well known as a lubrication specialist. He has now turned his attention from rockets to race cars. His company, Daytona 1, produces lubricants tailored for racing. We asked Buck if he could share some secrets on making cars go faster. He told us, “There is hidden power, torque and energy in every racecar. It gets lost and/or consumed in the drivetrain, and gets attacked by friction and drag from many outside as well as internal elements. The key to releasing the energy is to reduce the parasitic drag and available friction from as many areas as possible. We must free the car up in all aspects and let the power we have be released and transferred to the ground.

We at Daytona 1 realized that the best way we can help our racing family was to find that energy, see why and where it goes, and then develop a process and products that effectively correct the issues.

Over the past 20 years or so, we enlisted and worked with some of the best in the business—engine builders, crew chiefs, car owners, and teams, and have studied every moving part of the race car. As a group effort we looked inside the Motor, Rear ends, Transmissions, Hubs, Shocks, Power steering, and yes, even Heim Joints, to really see where this energy was being lost and what we can do to reclaim it.

With the help of engine builders, crew chiefs and race teams, we have developed and outlined clear and concise steps, as well as products and procedures that every race team can use. Whether it’s a 200hp. 4-cylinder entry-level racecar, an 850 HP Sprint Cup car or a 1,300 HP Drag car, each will benefit from this process. In most instances we find a minimum of an additional 2% of energy. In every instance the driver will feel the difference in the way the car runs and handles. The crews will even notice the way the car pushes easier.

These steps have became known as, “The DEFRICTIONATION® Process”

 
We felt so strongly about these products and procedures we coined the phrase and trademarked the word “Defrictionator.”
Only our products can be called “Defrictionators."
 
Below is a step by step process and procedure that will help you free up your car, go faster, get better gas mileage, handle better, reduce wear and break downs, and put that extra power to the ground….where it should be.”

Dirt Track Racers Defrictionation System: (Follow these step by step. It is as easy as this to defrictionate and have a faster, better handling and longer lasting race car)

 
(1) Engine: (Please make sure engine is through break-in period) Initial treatment. Add 3 ounces of XL-1 Engine Treatment per quart of engine oil. For instance. If you are using an 8 quart system. Put in 7 quarts of motor oil (we recommend Mobil 1} and 21 ounces of Xl-1 Engine treatment.
(Each oil change after this only use 2 ounces of Daytona 1 XL-1 Engine Treatment per quart of oil)
 
(2) Transmission: If you are using a Brinn, Falcon, Bert or roller slide transmission simply change the oil/lubricant and put in Daytona 1 Super Shift Dirt Track Trans Fluid with Defrictionators. If you are using a different transmission or normal 4 speed add 2 ounces of XL-1 Oil Treatment to your current oil. (Check on a regular basis. However, this oil is capable of running the entire season)
 
(3) Rear Gear: Change out gear oil and replace with Daytona 1 30/60 or 75/90 Racing Gear Oil. Daytona 1 Racing 30/60 has proven itself in all types of racing to add horsepower, reduce temperature and wear. (Check on a regular basis. However, this oil is capable of running the entire season)
 
(4) Power Steering: Change out fluid and add Daytona 1 Racing Power Steering Fluid. (Check on a regular basis. However, this oil is capable of running the entire season)
 
(5) Heim Joints: Spray all Heim Joints with Daytona 1 PSL (Professional Spray Lube). This allows the car to have free and easier movement. PSL was designed to clean as well as lubricate. Spray joints after washing and as needed. (Specifically formulated to not attract dirt and dust like other oils, the joints stay cleaner and lubricated longer)
 
(6) Hubs: (For Oil Fill Hubs ONLY) Clean Grease and/or other lubricant from hubs and replace with Daytona 1 Super Shift Trans Fluid. For regular grease filled hubs, use top quality performance grease and do not over pack.
 
You will see smoother operation and freely spinning wheel that moves and operates with quicker action."
 
The Complete Defrictionator Kit is available in our store at http://store.crateinsider.com/dayton...ctionator-kit/